Chasing Quiet: A Walk to Pistyll Rhiwargor
There’s something magical about walks that begin in silence and end in a roar—and that’s exactly what you get on the peaceful path to Pistyll Rhiwargor, a tucked-away waterfall at the far end of Lake Vyrnwy in Mid Wales.
We set off on a still morning, the surface of the lake like glass behind us. The car park near the western tip of the lake is easy to miss, and that’s part of the charm. There’s no visitor centre or kiosk here—just a few rough spaces beside the trees and a gravel path that beckons you into the valley.
From the very first few steps, this walk feels different. Quiet in the best way. The sort of quiet where you start to notice the small things: birds flitting between branches, the flick of a squirrel’s tail, the rush of a stream somewhere just out of sight.
The path is wide and gentle underfoot, perfect for a slow meander. It follows the Afon Eiddew upstream, flanked by woodland on both sides. If you’re lucky (and quiet), you might spot a red kite above or catch a glimpse of a deer in the trees. Even in the depths of winter, there’s colour here—moss clinging to stone walls, golden bracken catching the light.
After about a mile, the sound begins to shift. It’s subtle at first, but soon unmistakable: water. Fast, tumbling, insistent. Then, through a break in the trees, it appears—Pistyll Rhiwargor. A tall, elegant waterfall, not wide or thunderous like some, but high and laced with character. It splits across ledges and rock faces, creating smaller rivulets that sparkle as they fall.
There’s a small grassy clearing in front of the falls—perfect for a sit-down and a snack. You could scramble a little closer, or even follow one of the faint sheep tracks higher up for a view from above. But honestly, we were happy just to sit and listen.
The walk back followed the same path, though everything somehow looked different on the return leg. Maybe that’s what waterfalls do—wake you up a little. Make you look again. Make you slow down.
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a gentle, soul-soothing walk in Wales that doesn’t require a full day’s hike or a map and compass, this is one to remember. It’s family-friendly, photogenic, and easy to fit into a visit to Lake Vyrnwy. But the real joy? It still feels like a secret.
